Every table at this dark, rather intimate restaurant is angled towards the light at one end, and with it, the sun-dappled ocean. It's only fitting, then, that many dishes on the menu feature creatures from the sea. A super-fresh pave of cured ocean trout is beautifully linked with scallop sashimi, a lemon mayonnaise infused with sand crab, salty squares of squidgy squid-ink jelly, sweet cubes of watermelon and, for contrast, a salty kick of pork crackling crumble. Slipper lobster and gulf prawns are wrapped in crisp, golden noodles, the crunch given punch with a swirl of chilli lime caramel. Just-seared squire snapper comes with curls of calamari and a rugged squid-ink sauce, while pork holds its own against an A-list plate mate - grilled langoustine. A vanilla meringue dessert sits like a pert island in a pond of tart lemon custard alongside a scoop of licorice ice-cream and berries. At 35 years young, The Cowrie stands the test of time.