Whether it's sitting a pebble's toss from the sand and the cozzie-clad crowd, or the warm welcome from staff, there's something about Bathers' that makes you relax. Never mind the elegant tableware and the dazzling wine list, guests are just as likely to arrive casually salt spritzed as polished and ready to power-lunch on chef Dansereau's fine, French-influenced cooking. A rich galantine of quail with a foie gras centre finds balance with verjuice gel and nutty leek ash, although fried brioche cylinders, despite their crunch, lacked appeal. A succulent slab of bass groper works beautifully with clove-y pickled daikon nuggets, capers and a crisp pancetta shard, ensuring all the texture boxes are ticked. A perky, smoky paprika-spiced crab cream cloaks compact Spanish mackerel fillets. Let the banquette cushions catch you as you swoon over the caramel and chestnut cream - a marshmallow-light dome nestled among torn chestnut sponge pieces and caramelised pear balls. Fifteen years on and this teenager is blossoming.