Toby Wilson once ate 30 tacos in a day. The owner of Ricos Tacos in Chippendale remembers that tortilla-heavy experience well. In 24 hours, he'd hit three Mexican towns – Tijuana, Rosarito and Ensenada (the birthplace of the fish taco) – and ended his marathon-eating session with a rich finale, a tortilla "shell" sculpted from melted cheese. "It was stuffed with octopus and avocado," he says. "It was super full on."

Then again, there's nothing half-hearted about Wilson's dedication to learning about tacos. There have been multiple trips to Mexico: lessons splashed with lime and hot sauce. He's consumed seafood tostadas from coastal vendors and prawn tacos straight from street carts. Over the border, he's eaten tortillas inside a tyre yard and lined up for American food trucks and taquerias.

Wilson has cooked with Mexican Australian chefs, such as Alejandro Huerta (Chica Bonita, 92X), watched culinary lessons by Mexican grandmothers on YouTube and leafed through many relevant books. He's joined Clubhouse chats on the topic, spearheaded by José R. Ralat, Texas Monthly's taco editor. During a recent discussion, someone observed there's a taco for every mood and time of the day. Ricos Tacos, though, currently specialises in one style: breakfast tacos.

Topped with hard-boiled eggs, herbs and a double hit of salsa – they're handfuls of tortilla-wrapped excellence. Order them filled with Mexican-style chorizo and cubed potato. Or loaded with char-grilled steak, flavoured with Mexican chillies, garlic and a rich charge of clarified butter – Wilson's riff on carne asada (marinated and grilled beef).

There's also a breakfast taco that evokes his British roots: its potato, kale and cabbage mixture, pan-fried with leek in garlic-chilli oil, pays tribute to the bubble and squeak his parents offered in the mornings. "I grew up on it," he says.

Breakfast tacos are typically associated with Texas, but his take is a Mexican-Australian remix.

Meanwhile, his zucchini-flower quesadillas will direct you to Oaxaca, where a similar staple is eaten with local cheese.

Don't expect his hash browns to be traditional in any way – even if they're smartly fired up with chipotle salt and salsa roja. "I just love hash browns for breakfast … I silently judge everyone who doesn't order one," he jokes.

Agua de Jamaica (hibiscus iced tea) is a classic Mexican beverage, but Wilson sprinkles lemon myrtle throughout his – giving it a bright, extra-floral jolt. Tea Craft's Arthur Tong helped him formulate the drink and you might recognise it from Ricos Tacos' menu during its previous incarnation, as a food truck operating in Gelato Messina's Rosebery car park and at The Grifter Brewery Co, Marrickville.

Its new permanent location in Chippendale was meant to be a full-blown diner, but the pandemic has reduced it to a take-out window for now.

Yet, Ricos Tacos is expansive in other ways, representing Wilson's evolution from slinging Chinatown-inspired tacos at Haymarket's Ghostboy Cantina to more traditional fare at The George in Waterloo.

It showcases ingredients sourced from local Mexican businesses in a highly personal way – schooled from many taco-eating marathons.

But you don't need to eat 30 serves at Ricos Tacos to know this place is worth your time.

The low-down

Main attraction: Mexican-inspired breakfast delivered on double-stacked tortillas or with a good hit of salsa.

Must-try dish: Hash browns that get brilliantly levelled up with the spice and heat of chipotle salt and salsa roja.

Insta-worthy dish: The zucchini flowers that spill out of their tortilla wrapping, served with the buzz and zing of avocado salsa.

Drinks: From $4 for filter coffee made with beans from Sample Coffee to $6 for hibiscus and lemon myrtle iced tea.

Prices: From $4 for hash browns to $40 for pork and celeriac al pastor take-home packs for two (available for pre-order via Bopple until 5pm on Mondays – add the banoffee arroz con leche dessert when you do, it tastes like a knockout rice pudding made from caramelly-rich banana bread).