Latin American fare is on-trend in Sydney, but few do it as authentically as Morena. Lima-born chef Alejandro Saravia's ceviche is a classic - with snapper, roasted corn (cancha) and caramelised sweet potato - light and acidic with crunch and sweetness. Mild but fruity yellow chilli (aji amarillo) is a key ingredient, sourced from a Queensland farmer. There are modern touches, too, such as a confit of duck Maryland teamed with a tamal - house-made corn-based dough, bright green with coriander. Lomo saltado shows Peru's Chinese tradition: stir-fried beef striploin served with a side of baked Peruvian yellow potatoes under a creamy Andean huancaina (house-made cheese and yellow chilli) sauce. The restaurant is light and bright and lots of fun, with switched-on waiters and a loud crowd. Old meets new once again in milhojas - crisp pastry filled with creamy rice mousse instead of the traditional tres leches (sweet milk) and paired with a little strawberry salad.