This isn’t your regulation Korean restaurant, mainly because Ben Sears and Eun Hee An aren’t your regulation Korean chefs. The pair, who met while cooking at Claude’s, teamed up with wine man Ned Brooks to take over what was a hip Redfern drinking hole. While the decor of white walls and bare-bulb lighting is bleak-chic, the food is all colour and movement. Imjasutang, a prettily plated poached chicken salad, is pimped with rose petals, shaved mushrooms and date puree; bibimbab is a sticky medley of green and white rice, spanner crab, kohlrabi, walnuts and cured egg. Of course you’ll order the fried chicken, but it’s outgunned by tarakjuk - a silky congee strewn with oxtail, kimchi and jelly-like cubes of translucent beef tendon. How do you improve on doughnuts for dessert? You add shaved milk ice, red beans, strawberry and omija berries, that’s how.

And ... Bulgogi comes as a ssam package with cabbage leaf and anchovy.

THE LOW-DOWN
Vibe Korean street food meets fine dining.
Best bit A refined take on one of the world’s gutsiest cuisines.
Worst bit Bare-bones clatter.