Mojo's on Wilderness
13/20
Contemporary$$$
A mojo is a lucky amulet, and there's more than a little magical charm about this cosy restaurant set in quiet bushland, complete with self-contained cottages and herb gardens. The layout of the compact dining room creates maximum privacy for each table, creating a nice sense of intimacy. Menus move with the seasons, while a blackboard of specials changes daily according to the kitchen's whims, but at heart this is comforting food. Game terrine came a bit fridge cold, compromising its gamey, meaty character, but a warming and more than generous serving of spinach and gorgonzola risotto presses all the right buttons. Lamb, cooked pink, is successfully teamed with a buttery pool of spinach and garlic soubise - a lovely, comforting take. Nicely cooked Atlantic salmon also works a treat with an accompanying celeriac gratin and perfumed basil cream. It's hard to resist the charms of a caramelly poached pear tarte tartin with marsala ice-cream and butterscotch sauce. So don't.
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Original URL: https://www.brisbanetimes.com.au/goodfood/sydney-eating-out/mojos-on-wilderness-20120908-2ab6o.html