The name suggests no nonsense and that is what you get: fast, cheap and, if you order well, superlative grub. Shantung chicken is the star, crisp-skinned on the outside, moist on the inside and swimming in a vinegar sauce, redolent with chilli, shallots and loaded with garlic. Add rice and a plate of braised green beans with chilli for a well-balanced meal. The salt-and-pepper squid is also a winner, but if you’re seeking the Chinese of your youth, then sweet and sour pork, honey king prawns and their ilk are ready to take you on a trip down memory lane. The low prices mean it can get packed out, but staff aren’t there for small talk and niceties, and turnover is swift.