It’s easy to drive by Drummoyne’s Harris Farm Markets and not be aware of the delectable goods inside. We’re not talking about what’s at the grocery store but at Tonino’s International, which recently opened at the Harris Farm complex. The New York-inspired Italian deli caught the attention of Sandwich watch, a column dedicated to the essential Sydney sandwiches you need to know about, and while the mortadella Reuben and tuna melt are tasty, it’s the fried-chicken sanger we reckon is the mandatory purchase here.

Tell me more about this deli

Named after his father, Tonino’s International is the brainchild of Stefano De Caro, head chef of Surry Hills restaurant Cicerone Cucina Romana, co-owned with Isabella Daniali. The precursor for Tonino’s began years ago at Cicerone when they operated a Sunday deli selling sandwiches during COVID lockdowns. Fast-forward to 2024, and with years of ideas and experience on their side, the opportunity to bring Tonino’s International to life was realised.

The deli has a nostalgic vibe. “I wanted to make it feel like my dad opened this in New York in the 1960s, 1970s and I took it over in the ’90s,” says De Caro.

In a time when major supermarkets are moving away from delis, Harris Farm and Tonino’s are bucking the trend by offering a full-service experience. Get cut-to-order antipasti, cheeses, charcuterie and cold cut meats (many sourced from Marrickville’s Whole Beast Butchery) to take away or dine in, alongside house-made focaccia sandwiches and make-your-own on A.P. Bakery baguettes. Grab a seat at the cafe, which doubles as a bistro serving pizza and pasta by night.

But back to the fried chicken sandwich

While the Italian delis of New York might have shaped Tonino’s, the fried chicken sanger draws influence and ingredients from the Middle East, southern United States and Asia (in particular Korean fried chicken). “I don’t want it to be too Italian,” says De Caro. “I want it to be more multicultural, more international.”

He brines corn-fed chicken thigh (or breast, depending on mood) in buttermilk and harissa (North African red chile paste) for 24 to 48 hours, resulting in an incredibly tender and juicy piece of chicken. “It gives so much flavour to the chicken, you know?” De Caro says. “It kind of melts.”

It does, but it’s also got extra crunchy batter. “I use three types of flour [mixed with] spices, then we dust the chicken,” he says, not revealing what’s in the spice mix. The chicken is then fried, and before it’s placed on a round Big Marty’s sesame seed roll, it’s dipped in hot honey.

Kimchi mayo, sriracha, sliced Lebanese cucumber, shredded lettuce and cheddar are also added. The lettuce and cucumber add freshness, making it lighter. The chilli is noticeable, but I wouldn’t call it spicy, and although you might think the flavours clash, it all sings in harmony.

The large orange-hued chicken sandwich comes with a steak knife so that you can cut it in half, but we reckon you should get messy and enjoy it as it comes.

“What’s your bestseller?” I ask. “Oh, definitely the chicken sandwich,” says De Caro.

Where to get one

Tonino’s fried chicken sandwich is $21, and you can get it at 125 Victoria Road, Drummoyne, just near Harris Farm. The deli cafe is open Monday to Sunday, 8am to 3pm, and the bistro is open Thursday to Sunday 11am to 3pm and 5pm to 9pm.

This is the latest instalment of Sandwich watch, a column dedicated to the Sydney sandwiches you need to know about.

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