The more the disconnect between city and country grows, the more we crave the old-fashioned values of country life. Hence the innate appeal of this cute, cosy wooden-clad dining room, serving a four-course, seasonally driven menu twice-nightly to a communal table for 20. The restaurant's designer, Nicholas Gurney, runs the floor, while young chefs Mike Mu Sung and Tristan Rosier (both ex-est.) make almost everything from scratch. A typical dinner could start with darkly fossilised, crisply fried potato skins playing off a whippy aioli and dense, just-baked potato bread, and follow with silky citrus-cured ocean trout with crisp rye crumbs, yoghurt and shaved fennel. A rough-and-tumble share plate of roast spatchcock, caramelised onions, wilted kale and bready stuffing is a Gen Y Sunday roast, and a fruit-based dessert is followed - surprise - with a slice of freshly baked cake. It's like a dinner party with 19 of your closest hipster friends, and joy of joys, no dishes to wash.