This Punchbowl branch of the Granville institution has a glossy new fit-out with EJ insignias on the tables and an upstairs takeaway serving area, which frequently has long lines of eager customers. They’re all here for charcoal chicken served with giant bowls of chicken-salted chips and the signature garlic sauce, which is thick, creamy and masterfully hides the occasional burnt chicken wing. It’s accompanied with sour pickles and a bag of Lebanese bread; add extra tabbouleh and babaghanoush for a spicy, flavour-filled feast. A Blacktown branch is opening soon - when does an institution become a franchise?