Chui Lee Luk has always taken the path less travelled - it's just that the direction she takes keeps changing. What was a bijou little fine diner was rebooted in 2011, and again in 2012, emerging as a racy little neighbourhood bar downstairs and a deliciously gelato-toned dining salon upstairs for romantic, wine-driven degustations. The familiar delicacy and harmony remains in the cooking, however, as Luk and chef Ben Sears constantly challenge and refresh the concept of French-Asian cooking. That could translate as a sandwich of pig cheek and black fungus relish in the bar, or a supple degustation dish of crab in a potato and nori broth with persimmon. Upstairs, service from Louise Tamayo is warm, sincere and natural, and flavours flow gently by without any unnecessary exclamation marks, a style of cooking that is a dream to match with wine. The harmony continues into dessert via a lemon, milk ice and muscovado dessert that presses all your lemon meringue pie buttons.