Nestled comfortably among the glitzy pan-Asian eateries of Anzac Parade is this friendly neighbourhood favourite with warm cinnabar walls. ‘You new here?’ asks a regular of a waiter, and the food is relaxed too, with oodles of noodles and dumplings to delight. There’s also a good selection of specials and ‘Chef Recommend’, from which the crisp duck wasn’t a great choice (dry and far pricier than other options). But the boiled three delicacies dumplings hit the spot, and yu-shiang (aka ‘fish fragrance’) eggplant in casserole is suitably garlicky, while sautéed squid comes in chilli sauce that’s mild but pleasant.