It’s been a beloved Melbourne playground since it started in 1863 as Riversdale Boat House, on a bend in the Yarra.

Now Kew’s Studley Park Boathouse is reopening after a $5.8 million restoration and renovation that focuses on the site’s history, its connection to the river and surrounding parkland – and, of course, dipping an oar into the muddy waters of Birrarung.

When it reopens next Thursday the heritage-protected timber building will offer dining in the upper-level Conservatory, casual eats in the downstairs Pavilion, which flows onto a riverfront deck, and weekend brunch at The Perch cafe.

Nature-focused children’s activities will run every weekend and school holidays, there will be live music, and the “row-sé” boat hire package includes a glass of rosé, pizza and gelato.

The redevelopment is a collaboration between landlord Parks Victoria and hospitality group Australian Venue Co, which has pubs around the country. “This one is very special to me because I’m a Studley Park local,” says chief executive Paul Waterson of the group’s 212th venue.

“I’ve been going to the boathouse for 15 years and I’ve always wanted to play a part in it. The venue has had a succession of talented managers who didn’t have capital to reinvest, so it got more and more tired. The ability to reinvigorate it was really exciting for me personally, and I think will be great for the neighbourhood.”

He points to new Kew venues The Clifton, which includes the Grossi family’s Puttanesca, and classic pub Skinny Dog, which has just opened a rooftop. “Kew has been underrepresented but all of a sudden, it has three good new food and beverage offerings,” Waterson says.

Engagement with local Indigenous owners has been a key part of the process. “This bend in the river is of great significance to local First Nations people,” Waterson says. “We worked with the Wurundjeri Aboriginal Corporation on a cultural heritage management plan to understand what parts of the venue the community were happy to develop and what should be untouched.”

An area south of the boathouse was initially considered for an amphitheatre. “But that’s culturally significant, so we left it,” Waterson says. “We put most of the focus on the deck to ensure there wasn’t disturbance to the riverbank and surrounds. We placed thin pylons in the ground rather than undertake large-scale excavation. The build is relatively low touch.”

‘People going there as children, having fond memories, it has a special place in their hearts.’

Christian Abbott, Studley Park Boathouse executive chef

A mini explorer program will teach children about the area’s Aboriginal heritage through native herb planting and craft activities with natural materials.

Wine director Matt Skinner is leaning into the location for his 50-bottle all-Victorian wine list. “I used that terrible tool that we used in COVID to map our five and 10-kilometre radius,” he says. “If anything good has come from that, it’s that I dropped a pin on Studley Park and went out 100 kilometres and took as much product as I could from there.”

The Boathouse’s wine paddle trips through different Victorian wine regions in five 50ml pours. “We’re thinking of it as a cellar door in the city, a vinous walk through the state,” Skinner says. “I’m from here and I’m fiercely parochial. This is a chance to celebrate it.”

Skinner recalls family events by the river here when he was growing up. “We used to go for afternoon tea,” he says. “I have vivid memories of feeding ducks and being chased by geese.”

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UK-born chef Christian Abbott has no such childhood memories to draw upon. “When we acquired this site in 2019, I took a deep dive,” he says. “People going there as children, having fond memories, it has a special place in their hearts, so that nostalgic approach became very important to the food offering. It’s old-meets-new, taking the heritage of an icon and elevating it without alienating anyone.”

There will be sandwiches, pizza, cakes, cookies and smashed avocado for brunch. “We’ll keep the soup and sandwich, but it’s French onion soup and a wagyu sando,” he says. Scones will be a feature, too. “There are currant and no-currant scones served with cream and spiced berry jam,” says Abbott. “I’m from the home of scones, so we are good to go there.”

The chef is looking forward to opening the doors. “We’ve had this in our sights for a long time,” he says. “Now it’s coming to life, it’s a really good feeling. It’s special for us and special for Melbourne, too.”