This quirky cash-only restaurant boasts an almost cult following, thanks to charismatic owner and master-of-poultry, Simon Lay. There’s an a la carte menu but no one orders from it. Instead, reserve a three-course duck for two people. Never been here? Lay will school you in applying sweet hoisin sauce to crisp, perfectly cooked duck morsels; when to add cucumber and spring onion; and how to fold your thin, occasionally torn and oily but delicious pancakes. Next, duck and beanshoot stir-fry, then slightly aniseed-tasting broth with tofu and bony duck pieces. It’s fast, fun and generally full; book ahead to secure a late or early sitting.