With its charmingly scuffed timber floorboards, deli fridge crammed with antipasti (glistening eggplant slices, crumbed chops, marinated mushrooms) and palpable confidence, Pure Italian feels as if it opened with the first wave of postwar migration rather than in June 2010. Staff greet many customers by name as they crane to see what's inscribed on the big paper wall menu. The weekly list offers up treasures such as grill-striped bruschetta topped with zucchini, mint and soft goat's cheese; charry scampi with chilli-spiked chickpeas; and still-warm, lemony ricotta cheesecake. It's a family business: you can taste the love and pride in every mouthful.