The setting is not exotic: there's a freeway, Glen Iris railway station, a few shops, and at the end, the Little Thai Princess. Thankfully you enter a quiet haven, classical piano music drifting, starched linen, and a charming welcome from elegant waitstaff. Over, perhaps, a glass of Alsace pinot blanc (it's a delightful wine list) you peruse a menu of tantalising possibilities. Try the platter-for-two entree for a browse: Thai fish cakes, vibrant prawns, quality curry puffs stuffed with minced chicken. Main courses include, of course, curries, ginger beef, whole barramundi and a lively pad Thai with tiger prawns, all anointed by those feisty, sparky Thai flavours that are so pleasing. Service might not be speedy on arrival but is well paced as a subdued and soothing evening unfolds. Visually, the food is a treat; gastronomically it is splendid. Desserts might include sticky black rice pudding, or mango or coconut icecream imported from Thailand. This is a little restaurant with big ambitions.