Hold on to your hard hats, diners - Cookie is one rowdy, flavour-fuelled and thoroughly fun ride. The lively pace of the adjoining bar area spills into the lofty Art Nouveau dining room, where dishes are drawn from a tome of a menu divided into bar food, small, medium and large dishes. Can't decide where to start? Ask one of the sprightly and well-versed waitstaff about the many modern Thai specialities from chef Karen Batson and, while they're at it, hints on the mammoth wine list. You might begin with spiced quail tempered by dazzling pickled watermelon husk and mint salad, or cracking tapioca dumplings sticky with chilli and plump with peanuts and pork mince. Medium dishes are generous - the jungle curry a mountain of moist duck, eggplant and bamboo shoots all tied together with the fire of chilli. If room allows, desserts traverse the globe from a richly rewarding tiramisu to banana fritters with invigorating coconut and honey icecream. Want to go again? Inhale, exhale, relax.