Hamilton Street, Mont Albert, is the phrase for which "sleepy shopping strip" was invented. It's been tumbleweeds in the evenings - until now. Mark Cornehls and Nick Blackburn bought an old haberdashery two years ago, opened a cafe and applied for a liquor licence. In September, after enough red tape to wrap a truck, the licence came through. Then the owners went all radical, scrapped breakfasts, banned the "just for coffee" crowd, set noses out of joint, and refocused as a night-time operation.

If Churchill's path has been a little naive, that's probably because it's owned by the butchers down the road, Mark Cornehls and Nick Blackburn. No doubt they do a fine job of trussing Mrs Malarkey's lamb roast but hospitality is a different kettle of fish. I'm not sure that the motto "our food our way" is the kind of welcoming tagline that experienced restaurateurs would use, for example. That said, Churchill is heading towards something pretty special in a part of town that needs it. Think gastropub in a land of Grenache and G&Ts.

The menu starts with four snacks (more would be good), including a tasty sausage of pork and aged cheddar.

It's grilled and served with pickled cabbage and tomato chutney, made here. Simple. Good. It's no surprise that the sausage comes from the local butcher. Chicken shanks, bone exposed to make a neat handle, are marinated in plum, soy, ginger and orange, then grilled. They're finger-chomping good. A main course of lamb shoulder is a misfire: the shoulder is slow-roasted then served with DIY souvlaki stuff: flatbread, tzatziki, tabouli. It looks handsome but the meat is tepid and the bread too crisp to fold. Flame-grilled lamb would have been better.

More enjoyable is a salmon fillet, cured in vodka, vanilla and beetroot slurry, and served cool with dainty fennel and orange salad. There's also steak, mussels and chicken parmigiana with free-range ham smoked up the road.
Chef Marc Bishop, 22, has fallen into the head honcho gig after the previous cook departed. Like the butchers, he's feeling his way. He's certainly nailed the chocolate fondant, which is rich, oozy and fluffy in all the right places. Other pluses include a pleasant deck and music on Friday nights and Sunday arvos. The brief wine list needs attention in a place billing itself as bar and restaurant but overall, Mont Albert should be Most 'Appy with Churchill.

Tips and pans to theserve@theage.com.au