Following a $12 million transformation, one of Melbourne’s most centrally located city pubs, the Crafty Squire on Russell Street, reopens today as Hickens Hotel.

Owner Australian Venue Co – a hospitality group with more than 200 venues countrywide, including Melbourne’s The Espy and Morris House – has flipped the site into a four-storey, 1110-person mega-pub with two additional levels. It now includes a newly built rooftop bar, and a sports bar on a floor not previously open to the public.

“We saw a huge opportunity to unlock the full potential of the building and create something much more dynamic for the CBD,” says venue manager Giuseppe Lacava.

Gone is the dark facade – now freshly whitewashed – and the timber-dominated fit-out.

On street level is what’s billed as “Australia’s first permanent Carlton Draught bar”, a collaboration with the Melbourne-born brewery that’s pouring the whole catalogue of beers in a retro setting decked out with archival Carlton Draught posters and memorabilia.

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One level up, a restaurant lined with blue banquettes and cafe curtains serves both pub classics and “playful additions that are our take on some nostalgic favourites,” says Lacava.

There’s cheese and Vegemite garlic bread; crab and corn croquettes; and a duck leg “inspired by nan’s apricot chicken”, with a native green-curry gravy featuring lemon myrtle, wattleseed and more. The same menu is available venue-wide.

Once an office space, level two is now a sports and entertainment hub. As well as huge screens and bookable booths (with their own TVs, no less), there are vintage touches such as arcade games and a photo booth. Two private karaoke booths are decked out with disco balls.

The crowning glory is the blue-tiled, greenery-laden rooftop bar. Go for views of the surrounding cityscape; frozen cocktails including the Passionita with vanilla vodka, passionfruit, pineapple and lemon; and DJ sets on Friday and Saturday nights.

Lunch and dinner daily

127 Russell Street, Melbourne, hickenshotel.com.au

Five more new or refreshed pubs – and what they’re best for

For a fireside feast: Rising Sun Hotel, Richmond

This longstanding boozer has risen again after a retro-charged refurb, joining the same pub family as Fitzroy North’s Royal Oak Hotel and Brunswick’s Sporting Club Hotel. Locals are snapping up tables by the crackling open fireplaces and settling in for sessions surrounded by Richmond Football Club memorabilia. Thin-sliced, golden-fried potato cakes come with spiced relish; oysters are served Rockefeller; and the Lancashire hotpot is a wintry lamb stew topped with sliced potato.

395 Swan Street, Richmond, theriser.com.au

For specials nights in the front bar: The George Hotel, South Melbourne

Well-heeled publican Scott Connolly (Armadale’s Orrong Hotel; Healesville Hotel) has given one of South Melbourne’s oldest pubs a new lease on life. Across from South Melbourne Market, the tartan-carpeted front bar is the place to pull up a stool for specials, every day of the week. On Wednesdays, a parma and a pot is $26; on Thursdays, a steak with chips and salad is $27; and a weeknight happy hour promises $5 pots and $8 wines from 4pm to 6pm.

139 Cecil Street, South Melbourne, thegeorge.au

For pub fare with extra finesse: O’Connell’s Hotel, South Melbourne

Now in the hands of Morris Hospitality (Portsea Hotel, Albert Park Hotel, and more), this benchmark of pub dining has entered a new era. While the interior has been refreshed, the most notable change is in the menu, which zigs where others zag. Ex-Oakridge chef Aaron Brodie throws wildcards like char siu octopus skewers and wild boar pies, alongside levelled-up classics. Fish and chips come with a tartare-inspired beurre blanc, while a wagyu patty and smoked raclette give the cheeseburger X-factor.

407 Coventry Street, South Melbourne, oconnells.com.au

For a pre- or post-match feed: Quarterhouse, Docklands

Heading to the footy at Marvel Stadium? The three-level Quarterhouse, another Australian Venue Co pub, is conveniently located next to Southern Cross Station. On the ground floor, the timber-clad public bar deals in typical pub grub, including $35 Sunday roasts with bottomless gravy. When the sun’s out, make a beeline for the light, bright rooftop bar with its own lush “sky park”, where multi-course lunches are $79 on Saturdays, including a Hugo spritz on arrival.

693 Collins Street, Docklands, quarterhouse.com.au

For a winter weekender: Micawber Tavern, Belgrave

Fancy a tranquil group getaway that’s not too far from the city and has a pub within walking distance? Book Belgrave’s recently renovated Micawber Quarters, a well-appointed four-bedroom house in leafy surrounds, a stone’s throw from sibling pub the Micawber Tavern. It’s been acquired by Julien Moussi, whose Only Hospitality group includes the Beehive Hotel in Hawthorn and Hotel Collingwood. An “Irish parma” with black pudding and McDonnells curry sauce is a star of the tavern’s winter menu.

65-71 Monbulk Road, Belgrave, micawbertavern.com.au