Barwon Heads may lure Lorne and Torquay holidaymakers from their sun lounges this summer on the strength of new restaurant Tommy Gunns.

Former Igni chef James Bond-Kennedy is cooking super-seasonal dishes, from fire-roasted cabbage through to berry and frangipane tart, in a cute weatherboard cottage.

Owners Ruaraidh (Rozza) and Davina Gunn relocated to Barwon Heads and recognised a local need for quality cocktails and food year-round, not just in the peak season.

Designer Tanya Love-Hallihan has transformed what was a dark and cluttered restaurant into a smart room with brick red and biscuit tones. Including the covered pergola and outdoor area, Tommy Gunns can seat 55.

Bond-Kennedy says he's inspired by casual bistros of France, but not the way Australians see them. "To a French person, a bistro can be whatever the chef who works there wants to do."

His menu includes classics such as beef tartare, which he pairs with macadamia cream. But there are also lighter dishes, including a chicken salad made with Stokes River birds, Victorian-grown quinoa, wood-roasted green beans, house-made pickles and green sauce vierge.

"It's a tricky balancing act down here: being able to serve everyone but not [doing] a massive menu that dilutes the quality," he says.

He's striving to use local produce, such as excess herbs from local grower Bruce Robinson, which make up the "Cafe de Bruce" butter on the steak, plus Drysdale goat's cheese and Ket Baker sourdough.

Drinks are in the capable hands of Meg Conway, Brae's sommelier from 2015 to 2018.

Open Wed 4pm-11pm, Thu-Sat noon-11pm, Sun noon-6pm

60 Hitchcock Avenue, Barwon Heads, 0407 093 459, tommygunns.com.au