The NYE party pre-bottled negroni taste test: Where to find Sydney and Melbourne's best
It was the year of the negroni: A simple, elegant aperitif that became wildly popular, topping the global best-selling cocktail list and inspiring Australian bars and distillers to release a new wave of pre-batched concoctions.
While the cocktail itself is notoriously easy to make (three equal parts gin, Italian bitter and vermouth), chances are few people will bother toting three bottles of spirits to their mate's place this New Year's Eve.
For those seeking to indulge in their favourite alcoholic bevvy, without the fuss, I've sacrificed my liver to taste test Sydney and Melbourne's finest. Here's a selection of bottles, listed in order from "meh" to "hell yeah". You're welcome.
Little Lon Distilling Co.'s Ocean Negroni
$18 for 100ml
Melbourne distillery Little Lon says the salty "ocean" notes of this negroni come from The Japanese Bitters umami bitters (made from kelp, bonito flakes and dried shiitake mushrooms). Maybe I'm missing something, but to me this tasted more like a heavily perfumed dessert wine. Unique? Sure. But not what I wanted when pouring out a negroni.
Maybe Sammy's Jasmine Negroni
$69 for 500ml
The smell of blooming jasmine reminds me of sunny summer afternoons with a cocktail in hand, so the combination of negroni and white jasmine wasn't entirely left-of-field. At The Rocks bar Maybe Sammy, each bottle is hand-poured with jasmine tea dilution for a "smooth botanical" twist. I wanted this cocktail to be good (the bartenders are world-class), but the strong floral notes reminded me of department store hand soap.
The Dolphin's Carrot Cake Negroni
$65 for 500ml
This cocktail commits to the holiday season by steeping a classic negroni in a spiced carrot cake for 24 hours, then amps up the flavour with a salted carrot cake tea syrup. "Pure intensity, pure deliciousness," says Joshua Reynolds, creator and drinks director at hospitality group The Point. Top points for effort. While notes of nutmeg, cinnamon and ginger shine through, it's ultimately too sweet and syrupy for my taste.
Black Pearl's Merri Negroni
$32 for 200ml
Inspired by long walks along the Merri Creek Trail, Fitzroy bar Black Pearl created a negroni with the heady aroma of white jasmine. This cocktail is well balanced, using an otherwise traditional mix of London dry gin, Cocchi Americano and Marionette Curacao. The final product is light, sweet and a little too floral for my taste, but would be stunning with a splash of sparkling wine or pet-nat.
Moonshiner's King Street Barrel Aged Negroni
$64.95 for 500ml
If you love a bold, bitter negroni, this one's for you. Campari and Moonshiner's Aussie Native Gin really punch through with strong, savoury notes of aniseed myrtle and cinnamon, despite a three-month barrel-ageing process meant to "soften off the bitter elements". Director Tim Barrett recommends serving this negroni neat or with a splash of tonic. I think it would hold up well to soda water or a light prosecco – negroni sbagliato, anyone?
Little Lon's Baby's First Negroni
$18 for 100ml
Maybe you've made it this far through the list without knowing whether you even like negronis. In that case, I recommend putting your training wheels on with Little Lon's Baby's First Negroni. It's a fun cocktail that gently introduces the subtle floral bitterness of an amaro liqueur, without any of the traditional bite. Little Lon's lychee-infused gin adds a light but noticeable sweetness to round it out.
Melbourne Gin Company's Limited Edition Negroni
$75 for 700ml
This all-Victorian take on a negroni was first made for the World's Best 50 Restaurant Awards in 2017 and eventually became so popular its limited run was extended. The bespoke recipe boasts strong, competing flavours of bitter Seville oranges and syrupy sweet vermouth. While it can be overwhelming at first sip, it's a grower that would be well suited to an at-home spritz on a steamy afternoon.
Archie Rose's Red Centre Negroni
$89 for 700ml
It turns out native ingredients lend themselves to making a bloody good negroni. The Aussie-made spirits are packed full of botanicals such as river mint, riberry and strawberry gum, giving the cocktail a distinct floral flavour. Rounded out with a soft, smoky bitterness, Archie Rose presents a new-wave alternative without sacrificing the touch stones of the classic.
PS40's Breakfast Negroni
$35 for 250ml
After a long shift at the bar, PS40 owner Michael Chiem's former business partner Paul would settle into his favourite cafe with a negroni, a coffee and a slice of banana bread. The early morning ritual became inspiration for the Breakfast Negroni, in which the cocktail is sous vide for five hours with banana bread, tonka beans and coffee beans. The end result tastes remarkably like banana bread, without compromising the classic negroni flavour.
Poor Tom's Negroni Spritz
$23.50 for four 250ml cans
Light, bubbly and fun: this is a summer negroni if I've ever tried one. The Marrickville distillery uses their Strawberry Gin, Imbroglio Amaro and zesty Mildura lemons for this clever concoction, which retains just enough bitterness and bite to be considered a negroni. Grab a four-pack for your next picnic.
Brogan's Way Twice Aged Negroni
$80 for 500ml
This is the top choice for bourbon-lovers. Batched then barrel aged in red wine and bourbon bottles, the ruby red cocktail by Richmond distillers Brogan's Way is deliciously rich and complex. While whiskey notes are strong on the nose, the bitter sweetness of the negroni punches through for an unusual but satisfying finish.
The Dolphin's Dairy Milk Chocolate Negroni
$65 for 500ml
Be warned: if you bring this bottle to a party it will be gone within an hour, tops. After a 24-hour infusion with dairy milk chocolate and cacao husks, this holiday-edition negroni from The Dolphin smells absolutely incredible. "The deep, fresh chocolate nose goes through onto the palate without being too rich," says creator Joshua Reynold. It's a sweetness that complements, rather than overpowers, the Tanqueray gin, Amaro Montenegro and Campari.
Poor Toms X Cocktail Porter's Blood Orange Negroni
$19 for 100ml
If you can't be bothered to make your own negroni, chances are you won't be garnishing your pre-batched pour with an orange wedge. That's where this collaboration between Poor Toms and cocktail kit delivery service Cocktail Porter comes in. With just the right amount of blood orange kick, it's ready to pour straight over ice. It's a bold, well-balanced and delicious option.
Four Pillars' Double Barrelled Gin Negroni
$60 for 500ml
Subtle notes of wattleseed, rhubarb and white chocolate make this negroni a dangerously popular crowd-pleaser at summer gatherings. Dangerous, in that you may not get more than a single glass before your mates down the entire bottle. It's punchy enough to win over traditionalists, but lacks the intense, bitter astringency some drinkers rather avoid. Four Pillars' Sherry Cask Gin and Chardonnay Barrel Gin add a seasonal twist with a "decadent" touch of citrus and spice.
Ester's Negroni
$95 for 700ml
Ester's head distiller Felix Clark told me this would be the best negroni I tried and, a few too many negronis later, I realised I was wrong to doubt him. This simple, ruby-hued cocktail became my gold standard, coming closest to mirroring the in-bar negroni experience without leaving the couch. The classic combo of dry London-style gin, Campari and Cocchi vermouth is bitter and refreshing, the exact flavour profile which propelled the negroni to worldwide popularity.
Still want to mix your own? Here's some top tips from Continental Deli's Michael 'Mikey' Nicolian
The key to a good negroni is using quality ingredients, says Continental Deli co-founder Michael 'Mikey' Nicolian.
A traditional negroni uses equal parts gin, vermouth and Italian bitters (typically Campari), poured over ice and served with a wedge of orange. Nicolian says those three spirits lend themselves to "a good time", regardless of ratio.
"No matter what happens, whether there's not enough ice, or you've been too heavy on the vermouth, you're always going to have a very enjoyable drink," he says.
Quality ingredients need not be expensive, however. Nicolian says a traditional London dry gin like Tanqueray "makes a lovely negroni", while Campari is his first choice for adding that "bittersweet, punchy" flavour.
With hundreds of varieties on the market, Vermouth is where it can get tricky.
"That's how it can get clouded because people can be tempted to put in something a little different," Nicolian says.
"For me, a traditional Italian rosso vermouth is a great place to start, but if you want to up the ante Cocchi [Storico Vermouth di Torino] is really good.
"The main thing is, the vermouth has to be able to stand up to the two other ingredients."
While Nicolian says it all comes down to personal preference, he recommends trying a half a shot (22ml) of Campari, half a shot (22ml) of Aperol with a shot (44ml) each of Tanqueray gin and Cocchi vermouth.
"That would make a f---ing beautiful negroni – that is primo," he says.
Bianca Hrovat – Bianca is Good Food's Sydney-based reporter.