"We're running on Italian time," says Bar Carolina's website. That's an understatement. The latest project from Joe Mammone, proprietor of Melbourne stalwarts Sarti and Il Bacaro, was due to open by Easter. But Toorak Road's new sun-drenched Italian has arrived, with Aperol blazing and a tiramisu bomb.

Uncompromising designer Chris Connell can take credit for the resulting space in midnight blue, brass and charry steel. It's an incredibly sleek and functional picture from sunny atrium through to the bar ribbed with zig-zagged steel, past adjustable banquettes to a small courtyard out back for locals with dogs.

From the kitchen, head chef Paolo Masciopinto will do contempo-classic Italian. The stuzzichini (snacks) include a jumble of fried octopus and school prawns with beetroot aioli, and a vitello tonnato featuring tuna sashimi. Pastas will vary weekly and a wood-fired Josper grill is going to be charring whole flathead and hefty 60-day dry-aged steaks from Gary's at Prahran Markets. The dessert kingpin is a white chocolate bomb filled with the flavours of tiramisu.

The wine list has been compiled by Il Bacaro and Sarti's sommeliers and comprises mostly Italian varietals from here and abroad – Sicilian carricantes meet Clare Valley fianos. There will also be Ruinart champagne doing battle with lambruscos, a couple of house wines on tap and mortgagey options on pour via Coravin. Onwards, South Yarra.

Bar Carolina is now open Mon-Tue 5pm-11pm, Wed-Sat 11.30am-late, 44 Toorak Road, South Yarra, barcarolina.com.au

Editor's note: an earlier version of this article implied delays were due to design