It was always going to be gutsy, opening a burger restaurant in such close proximity to a joint that people once queued for hours in a cold, dingy park just to get their hands on. But a year and a bit in, and Beef and Barley has well and truly cut its own groove. 

We head there on a Wednesday night thinking it shouldn't be too crowded – and we were wrong. The place is jam-packed with people spilling out into the large outdoor seating area.

We almost decided against coming here tonight, such is the frustration of trying to find a carpark at the Kingston Foreshore at night, and the almost 10 minute walk from our car has well and truly built up our appetite. 

Despite our lack of reservation, staff are helpful and move things around so they can accommodate us, and we're seated inside. Furniture is casual and made for a quick meal, not for lingering, but it suits the space.

The owners are young and their enthusiasm shines through, particularly on the menu, which is fun to read. Burgers are each matched with a suggested beer and wine, with plenty of local drops. You're not bound by these selections though, and there's a full drinks menu with a large range of beers, ciders, a smaller wine list – which are all available by the bottle or glass – and a decent cocktail list. There's also a kids' menu with smaller burgers that are delightfully drink-matched with milkshakes. The kids' menu also features fairy bread, and it takes a lot of willpower not to get it.

You order at the bar, and while the line is quite long, it moves quickly. I'm barely back seated at the table and the drinks have already been delivered to us. The burgers are a bit of a wait, which is again unsurprising given the crowd.

To give the menu a good go, we've chosen one beef, one chicken and one seafood burger.

The El Pedro ($20) is stacked with a beef patty, bacon, chorizo, lettuce and tomato sauce, and honey glazed goat's cheese and honey mayo add a nice dose of sweetness. As suggested on the menu, this one is washed down with a Young Henry's Newtowner ($7).

The Kraken ($19) has well-cooked, herb-crusted calamari, roasted peppers, fried onion and rocket, and is lightly sauced with honey mayo. It's matched with an American drop, the Samuel Adams Boston Lager ($7).

The standout burger tonight is the Hang Ten Hen ($19). The combination of pineapple, chorizo and avocado really takes this grilled chicken burger to the next level. Finished off with honey mayo, onion and greenery, the combination is a winner.

It's worth noting that there's also a decent vegetarian and vegan menu – three burgers and two salads. I'm almost tempted by the Cyprus Melt which comes stacked with grilled halloumi, pesto, slow-roasted peppers, red onion, rocket, honey mayo and tomato relish – but the meat options win out.

All burgers come with a serve of beer battered chips with smoky house seasoning, and a sweet slaw. Our chips are a bit on the cold side by the time they reach us, but the house-made slaw is crunchy and beautifully dressed. 

Burgers are served on American-style buns and are moist, with a satisfying ratio of fillings and sauce to bun. They hold together well but are certainly the kind of morsel that leaves remnants all around your mouth, but in my opinion, a non-messy burger isn't a good burger.

The burgers are the perfect size for me, but for those with a bigger appetite, they might fall on the smaller side. You can double up your meat for an extra $5.

Service is consistently friendly and helpful all night, and despite the crowd, the venue never gets too noisy, which makes for a relaxed dinner. We leave Beef & Barley keen to try some of the other burgers – or at least borrow a kid for next time so we can order the fairy bread.