Wine lovers say a really good drop can be transcendental. It’s a fact my dining companion shares over lunch on the sunny terrace of this hotel at the top of the village’s pretty main street. It might be because of the riesling he’s sipping, but I reckon his thoughts of transcendence are just as much to do with the food. A beef chimmi changa consists of tender, perfectly spiced bee fencased in crisp pastry and served with jalapeno slaw, sour cream and tomato salsa, while a Mexican-style fish burger wins rave reviews. A Pedro Ximenez affogato with vanilla bean ice-cream and espresso coffee finishes things nicely.