It’s early one Friday evening in the parklands above the Sava River in central Belgrade and the crowds are rallying, as they have every weekend since May this year.

Here, on the fringe of the demonstration, the atmosphere is almost festive. Families with small children stroll around looking for the best vantage point. But closer to the action, where the crowd is at its thickest, the mood is more urgent. Anti-government banners and posters caricaturing the country’s politicians wave in the breeze and the speeches have begun.