New Zealand’s long white clouds turn slate grey and dump their entire contents on the day I visit Tala, Auckland’s first modern Samoan fine diner. Soaked, I squelch into the doorway, worried I’m a bit late, and that I’m making a puddly mess everywhere.

I’m blustering an apology when a fragrant hibiscus drink is pressed into my hands by co-owner Debby Onesemo. I immediately forget that I’m dripping water and that my hair looks like I styled it with a knife and fork.