Goliaths of the Caribbean: swimming with sperm whales in Dominica

'Moby-Dick' author Herman Melville got it wrong: a close encounter with sperm whales shows them to be magnificent, empathetic creatures, not monsters of “inscrutable malice”.

Swimming with sperm whales in the waters off Dominica in the West Indies is a once-in-a-lifetime experience. Brandon Cole

Richard Waters

Apr 10, 2019 – 12.00am

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“Call me Ishmael . . . ” Those celebrated opening lines from Moby-Dick are re-forming in my mind to “call me insane”, as I ready myself to slide into the ink-blue Caribbean and free-dive with a sperm whale.

The rasp of an aqualung can spook the whales, so I must rely on lung power, mask, snorkel, wetsuit and fins. Despite the fact I’ve spent the last couple of weeks practising holding my breath underwater at my local pool, I’m still only good for a descent of about 15 metres before I have to rise for breath.

Financial Times