Are you someone who hankers for old-school chardonnay? You know, lots of ripe, yellow fruit, oaky flavours and a creamy texture? I have just the wine for you: the 2018 Nicholson River Chardonnay, from one of the oldest vineyards in East Gippsland.

I tasted it when I visited the winery recently, and it was a blast from the past. Delicious, but bittersweet: the 2018 is the last vintage winemaker Ken Eckersley made in this style. Not only that, but after four decades of running their vineyard and cellar door, Eckersley and his wife, Juliet, are selling up. Unless they find a buyer, Nicholson River chardonnay could become a thing of the past.