Joseph Abboud describes his cooking as “food of Middle Eastern appearance”. It’s a typically left-field description that celebrates the exuberance of a table covered with flavour-packed Lebanese, Persian and Turkish dishes.

“The police used to use ‘of Middle Eastern appearance’ as a pejorative term when identifying criminals,” he says. “But nobody ever describes a felon as being of Anglo appearance. I aim to provide a counterbalance to that narrative, and use it proudly.”