Where did the time go? It feels like only yesterday I was standing in a chilly paddock in the Barrabool Hills, outside Geelong, watching a group of local winemakers on their hands and knees in the red dirt, planting 450 spindly young vines.

In fact, it was back in spring of 2018, and the first wine from that young vineyard – the Dusty Miller pinot meunier – has just landed on my tasting bench. It’s delicious, and a remarkable piece of history reborn.