In early March, if you wanted to get into Attica, you joined a lengthy waitlist and prayed that a table at the revered restaurant would come up in under three months.

Early last week, if you wanted to get into Attica, you joined a slow-moving, social distance-abiding queue and waited for up to an hour to enter a small shopfront adjacent the restaurant on Glen Eira Road, in Melbourne’s suburban Ripponlea.