The Adelaide restaurants, cafes we loved and lost during Covid
A city sports bar and an iconic sushi train have joined fine dining destinations and popular suburban cafes as Adelaide venues which have shut their doors for good in recent months.
Food & Wine
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Adelaide’s hospitality industry has been battling since the pandemic hit our shores and sadly, some venues haven’t survived.
Of course, the pandemic hasn’t always been the sole reason for some closures, with landlord issues and the teams behind a couple of beloved food institutions pulling the pin and heading into retirement.
From award-winning fine dining destinations and popular suburban cafes, here are some of the venues which have shut their doors for good over recent months.
WING IT SPORTS BAR
Basement at 89 King William Street, Adelaide
Adelaide’s only dedicated American sports bar quietly – and suddenly – shut it doors earlier this month, citing a months-long failed negotiation with the venue’s landlords.
It’s a big loss for the city’s sports fans, who packed the King William Street basement space formerly home to Jack Ruby, for their mouth-watering chicken wings, buffalo wings and fried chicken, along with a wide array of local and imported beers.
SUSHI TRAIN CENTRAL MARKET
38 Gouger St, Adelaide
Sushi Train’s first South Australian restaurant in Gouger St is closing after 18 years of operation.
Owners informed loyal fans of its closure via Facebook on May 27.
“It’s very sad to inform, but unfortunately we have three weeks left until our door(s) close,” they wrote.
“We would like to express our heartfelt gratitude to all the customers who have supported the Sushi Train Central Market Station since 2004. We will do our best to serve you until the end!”
The restaurant’s final day of trading is June 17.
THE FLEURIEU PANTRY
20 Gawler St, Port Noarlunga
For more than a decade, this popular Port Noarlunga cafe has fed the southern suburbs with its all-day breakfast menu and Coeliac Australia-approved kitchen.
But owner Trudy Fischer shut its doors for the final time on April 7, citing the coronavirus pandemic for its demise.
“It’s been an extremely hard decision, but one which had to be made,” wrote Ms Fischer on
“We tried our best and hung in until it was no longer viable. We are saddened that it has come to an end, but the physical, psychological and financial stress throughout Covid has finally worn us down.
“It’s time now for us to enjoy our family and focus on new opportunities, new chapters and the future ahead.”
CARMELOS CUCINA
375 Greenhill Rd, Toorak Gardens
Its ragu pasta dish won plaudits from The Advertiser food critic Simon Wilkinson but this new Italian restaurant in the eastern suburbs quietly closed in January.
Popular with locals after opening at the start of the pandemic, the venue’s owners said Covid-19 closures made the business impossible to maintain.
“It was always going to be a challenge opening during a pandemic but we believed our dream of good food and service will be enough to get us through. Unfortunately we were wrong,” said a post on their social media account.
“We had some very busy days and weeks but this latest covid outbreak has made it extremely difficult to be financially viable. I would like to thank all who have dined with us in the 10 months we were open, especially our beautiful regulars.”
MULLYGRUB AND OGRE
Main St, McLaren Vale
Popular McLaren Vale cafe Mullygrub announced its closure via social media on March 25, blaming COVID-related financial and mental stress. Owners also announced the closure of 18-month-old brewery restaurant, Ogre, which is also on the main street.
“It saddens us to that it has come to an end, but the financial, mental and physical stress of running two businesses through COVID (particularly the 2nd and 3rd waves) has finally worn through,” they wrote in an Instagram post.
The cafe will open from 6am-9am on Saturday, March 26, for takeaway coffees to farewell regulars.
LEONARDS MILL
Main South Rd, Second Valley
This historic SA restaurant closed its doors in January with owners, husband and wife duo Iain Calvert and Hayley Pember-Calvert, saying unsustainable Covid-19 restrictions left them with no choice.
Ms Calvert, 38, said it had been a stressful time for the couple – who bought the award-winning food destination in mid-2017 – as they made the “heartbreaking” decision to shut down their beloved venue.
“We were always hopeful that restrictions would ease but when we’re down to 25 per cent (density), we can only fit 24 people inside … it’s unsustainable,” she said.
“We put everything into the business, mentally and financially, and we just had nothing left.”
MADRE
Halifax Street, city
After three years, city pizza hotspot Madre shut up shop for good in February, with its owners deciding not to renew a lease on the Gilbert St space.
It was a move which surprised SA food lovers but co- owner, Pizzateca’s Tony Mitolo, said they’d decided to focus on their new pizza project, One Sneaky Cheetah, on South Rd in Ridleyton.
Helmed by pizzaiolo Ettore Bertonati, above, Madre was famed for its simple yet authentic Neapolitan dishes and as the first restaurant in the southern hemisphere to use sea water in its pizza dough.
LA TOMBOLA
Unley Rd, Parkside
A well-earned retirement beckons for veteran restaurateur Tony De Ieso, who quietly shut his iconic Italian restaurant La Tombola for the last time on New Year’s Eve.
“People are still ringing me trying to book a table,” De Ieso said.
“Everyone’s asking, ‘Tony, what’s going on?’ Some people were in shock when I told them.”
After 46 years in the business, De Ieso has decided it’s the perfect time to retire, selling his Parkside eatery to the owners of the medical centre next door, who are looking to expand.
De Ieso bought La Tombola, a classic Italian restaurant that first opened in 1986, back in 2000. He previously owned Pasta Palace on Hindley Street for 13 years after starting there as a waiter in 1980.
CORK & CLEAVER
Bevington Rd, Glenunga
Steak and seafood institution Cork & Cleaver has played host to some of the biggest names to visit Adelaide over the last 43 years, from late Formula One driver Ayrton Senna, tennis great Pete Sampras, two-time grand slam champion Lleyton Hewitt, cricket legends Max Walker and Ian Chappell, and a host of politicians.
SA’s new Governor, Frances Adamson, even worked there as a part-time waitress while she was studying at university in the 1980s.
But in December, owner Stratos Pouras, 84, decided it was finally time to retire, and about 15 of his 19 loyal staff members joined him.
The Greek-born restaurateur said it had been an emotional time sharing the news with his beloved customers.
“Every night as we tell them, I get hugs and tears … they are absolutely devastated,” he said.
“But it’s time to retire. Nothing is forever.”
SOUVLAKI BROS
Moseley Square, Glenelg
There was shock and sadness when this popular Greek yiros house in Moseley Square announced it was closing in February.
“It is with a heavy heart that after 5 years of running our business, we will be closing our doors for good,” the owners wrote on social media.
“We want to say a BIG thank you from the bottom of our hearts, to all of our customers & amazing staff for their loyalty over the years, it has been a wild ride, and one that we couldn’t have done without you all.”
MISTRESS MABEL
King William Street, city
Struggling cafe owner Jacob Booth shut his business down in February, citing the continued Covid restrictions and lack of government assistance for the sudden closure.
Mr Booth had been a vocal opponent of the crippling hospitality density limits, and was one of several owners who vowed to refuse entry to then-Premier Steven Marshall from their venues in late January.
THE DUCHESS ON QUEEN
Elizabeth St, Croydon
The owners of this fine tea house said “ongoing capacity restrictions and the mismanagement of Covid” forced them to pull the pin on their business in February.
“It is with a very heavy heart that I announce the closure of my beloved tea shop. Thankyou to everyone who visited … and contributed to my dream,” said a post on their social media page.
“I will forever be thankful. Take care of yourselves and each other.”
LITTLE SHOO
Esplanade, Henley Beach
This stylish cafe and bar, popular for its drinks menu and tasty, tapas-style menu, quietly closed its doors late last year, much to the disappointment of local foodies.
It’s since been taken over by the Malobo Group, which has launched a new brunch spot on the site called Sunnyside.
LA LOCANDA
Frome Street, city
This modern Italian eatery, which took over the space occupied by Andre’s Cucina and Polenta Bar, opened its doors in April last year.
Despite positive reviews for its “extraordinary gnocchi and beef cheeks”, the venue, led by Owner/chefs Giuseppe Marra and Laura Middei, has shut its doors after less than a year.
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