Ettore Bertonati to open Neapolitan-focussed restaurant – with sea water pizza dough

Importing sea water from Italy isn’t a cheap process, but for one renowned pizza maker is the only way to make the very best dough.

Anthony Mitolo and Ettore Bertonati. Picture: CALUM ROBERTSON

A NEAPOLITAN restaurant to open in Gilbert St next month is set to blow Adelaide’s pizza places out of the water.

Madre, Italian for mother, will be the first in the southern hemisphere to use sea water in its pizza dough. It’s the vision of Naples-born Ettore Bertonati, aka Pizza Tosser (you’ll find him on Instagram) , who spun a name for himself at Etica (Gilles St, city) and Napoli Pizzeria before he joined forces with McLaren Vale’s Pizzateca crew.

Anthony Mitolo and Ettore Bertonati. Picture: CALUM ROBERTSON

“The first pizze (pizza, plural) in Naples before World War I was made with sea water because the sea salt was considered a luxury item,” says Ettore, who is opening the restaurant with the support of Pizzateca’s Tony and Vito Mitolo and Tim Anderson.

They only know of a few other restaurants that use, or have used, sea water in their pizza dough, including one in Naples, London and Boston, US.

Using sea water, which will be imported from Italy, is not a cheap process, but the benefits extend beyond taste, Ettore says.

“Sea water contains many minerals, not just sodium chloride. It contains also sulphate, magnesium and potassium,” says the chemistry PhD.

In addition, the amount of sea water required contains less salt than what is traditionally called for in a pizza dough recipe.

Sea water imported from Italy will be added to just two other ingredients: Ettore’s “mother dough”, which he has nurtured since he moved to Australia seven years ago, and flour. “It also ties into the name of the restaurant,” adds Tony. “It’s Mother Earth.”

Madre also pays tribute to Ettore’s mum (“My first pizza I tried with my mum,” he says) and Mother Mary (the Madonna).

The restaurant housed in what was formerly Feliciano, will offer a small menu of traditional Neapolitan dishes.

“All will be very simple and very authentic,” Ettore says. “My idea is not to change the traditional recipes.”

“The two main things will be pizza, really made the traditional way, and also pizza fritta (fried pizza),” says Ettore. “There will be just one plate of pasta that will change monthly and a few entrees all dedicated to Napoli.”

Plates will include croquettes, octopus salad and scarola – a dish made with bitter endive leaves, anchovies and sultanas. Pasta might be served with beans and mussels, or potato and provola cheese.

While Ettore will be pizzaiolo (the pizza maker), he’s brought in fellow Neapolitan, Gianluca Amalfitano, as head chef, who’ll also whip up trad Neapolitan sweets such as the rum-soaked baba and pastiera napoletana.

“It’s getting close now,” says Tony. “We really believe in (Ettore) and what he wants to do … it’s time for him to have his own baby.”

Madre is set to open mid-June for dinner Tuesday to Sunday.

Madre is set to open mid-June for dinner Tue-Sun, 57 Gilbert St, city