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You’ll hear the trolleys rattling over the tiled floor before you see them. From the towers of bamboo baskets, choose fluffy steamed pork buns, slippery sheets of prawn cheong fun or meaty, roe-crowned siu mai.

Prawn and ginger dumplings are bouncy and oh-so-fragrant, and chicken feet – a favourite of dim sum aficionados – come in black bean sauce pulsing with umami (or, at weekends, abalone sauce). When you’re done, there’s little time to appreciate the sweeping city views.

Dessert trolleys start circling, offering wobbly egg tarts and syrup drenched tofu pudding. There are also rarities in the kingdom of yum cha, such as a flaky feathered pastry swan that comes in two flavours. Black birds indicate a black sesame filling; white hides nutty taro. It’s the final surprise of your trip to the mall.