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It’s green and smooth and comes with tortillas, but guasacaca is an entirely different beast to guacamole. Grassy and lighter on the avocado, the Venezuelan sauce is one of the Latin American ingredients in the spotlight at chef Alejandro Saravia’s third Melbourne restaurant.

There’s oca, a tuber once grown by the Inca; pais, Chile’s oldest red wine variety; and dishes rarely seen in Australia such as acaraje, the Brazilian black-eyed pea fritters. Swipe thrice-cooked suckling goat through that guasacaca, which is bright with coriander and green chilli.

Later marvel at quesillo, the Venezuelan custard flan, joined by a huddle of candied walnuts to showcase bittersweet butterscotch flavours. Ensconced in a cave-like room reached by a meandering staircase, you’ll feel that you’re in on a secret – but not for long.