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Venetian blinds shade this teal-toned hangout, which faces the 58 tram terminus on the cusp of Coburg.

From the ranchera and Latin pop playlist to the black-and-white framed linocut prints of agave plants, Bar Tobala nods to Mexican culture while avoiding tired cliches.

Salsas are a standout. They add extra oomph to dishes such as scallop aguachile, its green broth mingling with punchy salsa negra and pickled Lebanese turnips. Fideo frito is a universal comfort food: crumbed, fried slabs of tightly packed pasta atop bechamel thickened with toasted tortillas, the whole thing showered with cheese.

Cocktails are worth a visit in their own right. The Green Telephone balances tomatillo, cracked black pepper, lime and gin; the sour-savoury flavours are echoed in the salsa verde surrounding a superb chicken and black bean tamale. In both instances, it’s a don’t-waste-a-drop scenario.