Brought to you by the maestri behind Fitzroy’s The Everleigh, this subterranean den evokes bohemian Paris via New York, with chequerboard floors, red banquettes and lighting for lovers.

The list of by-the-glass wine skews French and Victorian but is arguably outshone by the cocktails, which, if not Margaux’s raison d’etre, is surely its piece de resistance.

Spring for a petit martini followed by saucy duck fragrant with cinnamon, nutmeg and ginger, served with fries to split with your dance partner. Throw in a classic tartare and some oysters then later, recoil in delight as your spoon breaches the caramel pane of otherwise defenceless creme brulee.

The double-decker MGX burger, bursting with bacon and bordelaise sauce, hits the bullseye at any hour, but that you can order yours at 2am at weekends makes this hangout one of peerless distinction.