“This is very messy to eat,” says a Lit Canteen server as she hands over a tray with the Alexandria eatery’s new winter special, the pho-mi. The banh mi-pho hybrid caught the attention of sandwich watch because it cleverly combines two Vietnamese food icons: banh mi and pho. Sandwich watch – a column dedicated to the Sydney sangers you need to know about – endorses breaded ingenuity, and we needed to know if this limited-edition sanger was a smart uniting or a flawed food creation.

But before that, let’s talk about The Bear

Lit Canteen’s co-owner, David Phan, says the inspiration for his pho-mi is The Bear’s Chicago beef sandwich that was, at least for a moment, the world’s most-talked-about sanger. The first season of the popular Disney+ show is centred around a shop selling the meaty sandwich, which is made with thinly sliced beef that’s been soaked in the juices it was cooked in, then stuffed in a length of French bread along with peppers. The sandwich is either served “dunked” in the juices, “dry”, or with a side of meat juice.

“We have this poster up in the shop,” Phan says, showing me The Bear poster, but with a cut-out photo of his face over the main character Carmy Berzatto.

Traditionally, a banh mi comes with pork, but the pho-mi is made with beef. Phan channels Carmy by slowly simmering the brisket for 12 hours in pho broth so it absorbs the aromatic flavours of cinnamon, coriander, ginger, cardamom, star anise and cloves. The sandwich is then served with a cup of the beautifully delicate pho broth.

Also gone is the traditionally crunchy – but often flimsy – banh mi roll. “The bread we use is either an artisan French baguette or a sourdough baguette,” Phan says. “Only a dense baguette allows for dipping to absorb the broth while keeping its texture and integrity.”

So, is it a smart uniting or a flawed food creation?

Yes, it is a coming together of two greats to create something memorable, warming and comforting. Everything is in proportion too, and it won’t put you to sleep. The Lit Canteen team is right: it’s messy, and there’s a knack to making sure the broth runs into the bread for added juicy flavour, not down the front of your shirt. The star anise-laced pho is a highlight, and when the roll is finished, I pick up the cup and slam down the remaining broth.

Banh mi enthusiasts may not love the dense bread – and I admit I wouldn’t want to permanently transition to a dense banh mi world – but it makes sense here. That said, if you dread being covered in crunchy bread shards, which is inevitable when eating the mighty Vietnamese sandwich, this could be for you.

Traditionalists may also throw shade at the inclusion of pickled onions alongside the usual fresh herbs and chilli. It also comes with chimichurri mayonnaise rather than pâté, but the meat-friendly condiment of parsley, oregano, garlic, olive oil, vinegar and chilli flakes works well, and, as Phan says, “helps contrast the taste and textures of the herbs”, and lifts the hunk of brisket.

Where to get one

The Lit Canteen pho-mi will set you back $19 and is available for winter. You can get one at 11 Mitchell Road, Alexandria. instagram.com/Lit_Canteen

This is the latest instalment of Sandwich watch, a column dedicated to the Sydney sandwiches you need to know about.