A lively crowd in search of good value often packs out this modest local diner, so prepare to queue if you haven’t booked. There’s a quick turnover, but without a sense of being rushed. The no-frills location next to a servo and budget touches such as plastic serving dishes don’t detract from the fresh, skilfully cooked food. Deep-fried gyoza disappoint, but a judicious touch shows in other dishes such as aburi sushi, featuring lightly seared salmon, tuna, scallop and kingfish, and panko-crumbed tempura. Portions are generous, and the service prompt and polite. Also in Artarmon.