This is one of the locals' eating hot spots in Hurstville's mini-Chinatown environs. The mammoth menu - 30 pages, half the table's size and with 300-plus dishes - is daunting and wondrous to anyone used to run-of-the-mill Chinese food. This may be a basic-looking restaurant but its dishes are wide-ranging and top-notch. Crab is the house speciality and, along with fresh fish from window tanks, is an affordable option when shared. Try the richly flavoured sauteed boneless yellow eel, the melting deep-fried eggplant with salted duck egg yolk, or the warming seafood and Chinese green vegetable rice porridge. Busy staff happily decode less familiar dishes.