Timing is everything here: arrive too early and dumplings are still being prepped - so you only have a trimmed menu to pick from. Enter too late and your favourites have sold out. Set your watch, call ahead, plot any scheme necessary to ensure you’re at this no-frills eatery at the right time, because when the stars (and minutes) align, having a bowl of fresh-cooked dumplings here is a joy, whether it’s chive-and-pork parcels swimming through noodles and broth, or mixed-mushroom bundles ready for your freestyle squirts of soy sauce, dashes of chilli or squeeze of lemon. Upsize with extra greens or spicy beef slices.