An enormous menu ranging across South-East Asia can be cause for celebration or trepidation, so it is with relief that we report this place pulls it off. Avoiding any need to contemplate decor, the owners have simply plastered every wall and window with menu pictures, and a dazzling display it makes. Snake beans are bright and glossy, stir-fried with belachan and minced pork, and the eggplant hotpot with dried fish is silky and pungent. Steamed barramundi gets the classic ginger and shallot treatment and star anise adds interest to crisp-skinned duck with bok choy. Service can be curt and advice bewildering but somehow everyone gets fed promptly and well.