NewsBite

Advertisement

A top sandwich in a panel beaters? It must be Kosta's in Rockdale

Lenny Ann Low
Lenny Ann Low

Kosta's bright blue-and-white facade in Rockdale.
Kosta's bright blue-and-white facade in Rockdale.Dominic Lorrimer

Greek

Lockdown might have been the smartest time to open a hole-in-the-wall sandwich emporium like Kosta's. Takeaway only, check. Range of enticing "VIP" sarnies filled with luscious ingredients, check. Proximity to a Bunnings click-and-collect for unlimited wall-plug, flange bolt and guttering brackets pick-up, check.Who needs a sit-in restaurant with five plated courses when everyone's QR Code and face mask professionals looking for travel-friendly foodstuffs with panache.

Kosta's opened four months ago and its bright blue-and-white facade stands out at the front of a smash repairs workshop in Rockdale's semi-suburban industrial zone.

It's a no-frills spot with customers queuing metres from pelting traffic, squealing angle grinders and the kind of heat only white concrete can radiate in full sun on a hot day. But, people are arriving in droves today and all are greeted like old friends at the till.

Advertisement
Cheese salami sandwich with pickles.
Cheese salami sandwich with pickles.Dominic Lorrimer

For a takeaway outlet housed inside a panel beaters, Kosta's hospitality is magical. It's not a short wait for our order, and the noise levels mean close-to shouting conversation when you order, but genial staff are speedy, chatty and working like billy-o to fill a steady stream of walk-up and online orders. 

Kosta's menu was created by former Cornersmith chef Cameron Harris and Delicious magazine recipe writer Helena Moursellas. It offers a Greek-flavoured range of breakfast rolls, burgers, muffins and croissants and, the main focus, eight lunchtime sandwiches, on panini, sourdough, olive oil buns and schiacciata from Kirrawee bakery Thoroughbread.

Schiacciata, which means squashed in Italian, is a Tuscan focaccia, crispy and golden, and here it's wrapped around three sandwiches: salad, poached chicken and tuna salad.

The schnitty sandwich, filled with panko-crumbed chicken, lettuce and cheese on an olive oil bun.
The schnitty sandwich, filled with panko-crumbed chicken, lettuce and cheese on an olive oil bun.Dominic Lorrimer
Advertisement

The latter is described on Kosta's Instagram as "No tuna and brown rice B.S up in here. Kosta's tuna melt with bernaise + umami", a writing style that epitomises Kosta's vibe in general.

My nine-year-old lunchtime associate is astonished to read Kosta's website welcome, which begins with "Yassas ya bloody malaka!" in 50-point-size lettering. It goes on to declare "This isn't no bloody mobile fone Instabook prety prety hashtag bisiness. My sandwhiches are the best … No prety pink flowers and vedggie bowl bullshit." 

It's right. We order the Super Deli panini, with turkey ham, sopressa, peppers, eggplant, spinach, graviera, fennel butter, lettuce, and salsa verde and it's a no-holds-barred feast of cured meats and marinated vegetables on bloody good bread. 

Lamington from Tuga pastries.
Lamington from Tuga pastries.Dominic Lorrimer

It's the same for the poached chicken sandwich, a bona fide banquet of melty chicken, avocado, slaw, chives, mayonaise and salsa verde on thick, glossy schiacciata slabs.

Advertisement

They're out of the schnitty sandwich, filled with panko-crumbed chicken, lettuce and cheese on an olive oil bun, but all disappointment fades when we spot the fridge. Cartons of Nippy's strawberry milk are spotted and my associate forgives Kosta's strong language after sipping hard-to-find, best of all pink drinks.

I'm immersed in a fresh watermelon juice, its straw puncturing a slice of feta resting on the lid, and the promise of a fruit-filled lamington and baked cheesecake slice from Tuga pastries in Clovelly. A strong, fruity coffee hails from Veneziano Roasters.

The Super Deli panini is a feast of cured meats and marinated vegetables.
The Super Deli panini is a feast of cured meats and marinated vegetables.Dominic Lorrimer

If I had more money I'd spend it on Kosta's house-made range of pickled carrot, fennel and kimchi, delectable-looking on the shelves beyond. But we need to go and eat lunch in the car like everyone else frequenting this bonza bewdy food joint. In Kosta's own words, get it into ya.

The low-down

Advertisement

Kosta's

Main attraction: Fat, beautifully layered sandwiches with luscious Greek-inspired fillings on naturally fermented artisan breads.

Must-try dish: The poached chicken sandwich, encased in thick slabs of schiacciata and spilling tender chicken, avocado, slaw, chives, mayonaise and salsa verde.

Insta-worthy dish: The Super Deli panini, as long as your arm, mixing lip-smacking deli meats, marinated peppers and eggplant, spinach, Greek cheese and fennel butter. Could take an hour to finish.

Continue this series

November 2021 hit list: Where to eat and drink in Sydney this month
Up next
Merivale's Sam Egerton and Kevin Peters at Backyard at The Alex.

The Alexandria Hotel to join Merivale's reopening party with a line-up of food truck talent

Empty since 2016, The Alexandria Hotel will reopen next month with three kitchens in shipping containers.

Previous
Nighthawk's custom-built kitchen is housed in a shiny Airstream trailer.

Nighthawk Diner offers festival-styled feasting

Pace yourself when enjoying the hearty delights served up here.

See all stories
Lenny Ann LowLenny Ann Low is a writer and podcaster.

From our partners

Advertisement
Advertisement

Original URL: https://www.watoday.com.au/goodfood/sydney-eating-out/kostas-review-20211011-h1z44h.html