Stand by for a show - the pouring of water at a great height from hand-blown jugs, a huge floral arrangement dominating an ornate, Middle Eastern-themed room, a cast of affable waiters and lots of big, noisy tables. But the kitchen shows plenty of substance too, on its journey through North Africa, Lebanon, Morocco and even Greece. In the absence of a large group of friends, a mezze plate (minimum two people) is a marvellous way to get started. Eight dishes are there for the grazing, including chicken wings sticky with molasses, hummus, babaghanoush, tabbouleh and good, creamy taramasalata. Your roller-coaster spice ride continues with a tagine of goat, its full-throttle flavour tempered by black olives, preserved lemon and yoghurt sauce, while zucchini, potato, spinach and capsicum abound in moghrabieh (giant couscous) spiked with fetta. A custardy-crunchy galaktoboureko ups the ante with the addition of yoghurt cream.