Flair defies its low-key shopping-strip location with flickering candles, smiling staff and a compact but smart-as-paint room - pristine white but splashed with vermilion and black. Then there's chef Jason Martin's pretty plates - the product of simple ingredients worked to great effect, often upstaging the sum of their parts. To begin with, smoked salmon terrine is a technical triumph, with a mirin-marinated scallop, avocado, pickled ginger and puffed rice, a whack of wasabi chantilly, a sprinkle of oyster dust and beetroot shoots. Or there's twice-cooked pork belly, done to crisp-skinned perfection, with the big macho meatiness of black pudding and rillettes. Expertly pan-fried barramundi contrasts beautifully with a splash of pungent preserved-lemon puree, neon-bright baby asparagus spears, brown butter crumbs and a bisque emulsion. Dessert is a play on taste and texture. coconut jelly, mango sorbet, palm sugar sago, poached pineapple and mango puree.