From its mostly Italian wine list to a finale of obscure Italian cheeses, this is Italophile heaven. Beneath a plain, modern building, a romantic, low-ceilinged dining room winds around an open kitchen where a battery of chefs produces fabulous dishes, including the tenderest grilled octopus on smoked kipflers, and a fat mushroom filled with smoky, gooey scamorza, porcini and ricotta on charry grilled radicchio. Plating is pure art, so tiny golden beets, celeriac dabs and balsamic dots adorn neat pink cylinders of lamb backstrap and unctuous ribs, while an eggy pumpkin and ricotta-stuffed crepe comes neatly sliced into upright discs in nutty brown butter. There's a superlative co-ordination of flavours and technique, but serves are small - where's that fabled Italian generosity? Prompt, unstuffy service and quiet music add to the mood, as does the chocolate budino - dark chocolate custard encased in milk chocolate custard in a quivering moussey dome.