Boiled, steamed or fried, the dumplings and buns at this tidy little restaurant have a rustic, home-made charm: thick, chewy walls surround piping-hot filling and juices that give way to that wonderful explosion in the mouth at the first bite. Partnered with the simple charm of crisp spring onion pancakes and fragrant steamed rolls (mantou), they leave few reasons to venture away from the dumpling section of the extensive menu. The shredded pork pancake with Beijing sauce might tempt, though, the fried pork slivers richly sauced and wrapped in a slim pancake. Dunk the pancake in the accompanying hot chilli oil and wash it down with a pot of strong tea.