Just outside Berrima is the beautiful Berkelouw book barn, with gleaming wooden floors, towering shelves and vaulted ceilings. Lose yourself in row upon row of reading material old, rare, quirky and new. Meanwhile local winery owners have taken over the adjoining spill-over cafe as well as the atmospheric dine-among-the-books area, with a little cellar door counter and an adaptable cafe-to-semi-casual kind of menu. Share plates head up the placemat food list - salumi, a kingfish crudo, along with salad-style entrees, a line-up of wood-fired pizzas and more serious dishes from Land and Sea (sic). A confit duck from nearby Thirlmere, with sweet circles of boudin noir, plus kale, kipflers and tapenade, has lots of good rustic notes for a chilly Highlands lunchtime. A dryish but adaptable flatbread base accommodates fine pizza toppings - anchovy, fennel, olives and capers, or prosciutto, rocket, pecorino and parmesan. A rose and anise-poached pear with warm brioche and honey ice-cream is a fine prelude to a good espresso.