Fans of the Korean DIY barbecue should hotfoot it to this place that takes the barbie business very seriously. Every table has not just the built-in grill but - in an effort to stop things getting too smoky - an exhaust fan. Kick off with moist steamed dumplings filled with a mix of beef, pork and green vegetables. Marinated pork ribs are smoky and chewy and that national favourite, bulgogi, comes in various guises including calamari. The squid requires focussed chewing, its spice-smeared surface developing lovely charred extremities. Potato starch vermicelli is cold and bouncy with tart blasts from pickled sashimi. Side dishes and dips add to the experience.