Push open the door beside a nondescript roundabout to find a candlelit scene where crisp-shirted bartenders stir flawless negronis behind a handsome timber bar. Couples toast anniversaries over wagyu pappardelle, while friends pile focaccia with wodges of burrata and swap high points of their week.

Pino’s strives for old-school Roman hospitality, with the menu and convivial (although sometimes frenzied) service approximating an everything-to-everyone quality.

The best dishes are superbly executed, such as millefoglie di parmigiana, an ode to comfort food featuring thin layers of eggplant offset by a sharp and creamy cheese sauce.

Galletto alla diavola, a butterflied chicken with roots in southern Italy, has a charred-to-perfection exterior emboldened by paprika and fiery ’nduja. Combining technique with high-wattage flavour, it’s the kind of chook you’ll want to book a return visit for.

We’re fans of the by-the-glass Italian wine selection, too.